After backwashing, take note of the pressure reading after returning the valve back to the filter position. Once the pressure reaches 10-12 psi over your normal operating pressure, backwash your filter. Backwashing your filter too frequently can cause your pool to become cloudy, as well as decrease the effectiveness of your filter.
We recommend chemically cleaning the filter at least twice a season. If you did not clean the filter when you closed the pool, clean it at the beginning of the season. However, if the filter was cleaned at closing, the first cleaning should be done around the 4th of July.
We recommend that you replace the sand every 3-4 years.
We suggest you run your pump and filter 24 hours a day or at a minimum of 8-12 continuous daylight hours.
Check the screen in the universal wall fitting. A dirty screen restricts the water flow that pushes the Polaris. Bad bearings can also be the culprit of a slow moving Polaris.
No. Normal evaporation during the hot summer days is about 1/2″ or less a day. Anything more than 1/2″ a day may indicate a leak.
Overlap liners fold over the top of the wall and are held in place by coping and metal rods. A beaded liner fits into a groove on the inside of the pool wall.
Yes! Brushing is an excellent way to prevent algae and other unforeseen problems. Automatic pool cleaners do not provide as much scrubbing action as brushes.
Early spring is the best time to open your pool. Opening early allows adequate time to replace any faulty equipment as well as correcting water chemistry before swimming weather arrives.
You most likely have a chlorine demand. Double shock with Burn Out every 3 hours until you can hold a free chlorine reading of 1.0 ppm or higher for at least 24 hours. This process will satisfy the demand of chlorine.
Water clarity is 50% water balance and 50% filtration. If the filter is not being run as often as it should be or if the filter is not working efficiently, then proper water balance will not solve your problem. Filter aids, such as, Sparkle Up and Baquacil Flocculent, can be added to help improve filtration. Clarifiers can be used in conjunction with filter aids to increase the size of the particles so they can be filtered more easily. In addition to chemical remedies, proper water circulation inside the pool is vital. Your returns should be pointed downward at a 45-degree angle and away from the skimmer to create a circular motion.
Clear green water usually indicates a presence of copper in the water. A chelating agent, such as, Pool Magnet Plus, can be added to remove the metals.
Chloramines are the cause of the strong odor of chlorine. Chloramines are created by swimmer waste, perspiration, oils, and other contaminants that often enter the pool. Super-chlorinating your pool will alleviate this problem.
There are two formulas you can use to determine the volume of your pool.
The first formula is for a round pool and it is as follows:
Diameter x Diameter x Average Depth x 5.9
Example: a 24′ round pool that was 4 ft. deep would look like this:
24 x 24 x 4 x 5.9 = 13,600 gallons (rounded up)
The second formula is for a rectangular pool:
Length x Width X Average Depth x 7.5
Example: a 20′ x 40′ pool that went from 3′ to 8′ in depth would look like this:
20 x 40 x 5.5 x 7.5 = 33,000
This problem usually indicates that the spider gasket inside the valve has gone bad.
We recommend that you replace your reagents and test strips at the beginning of each season.
On any salt system, the optimum chlorine production occurs between 3200 and 4000 parts per million of salt. Zodiac (the salt generator we offer) recommends a salt level of 4000 ppm so that the addition of salt is not as frequently required. Allowing the salt level to fall below 2800 ppm may reduce the life of the cell. 4000 ppm is barely detective, the taste threshold is 3500 ppm for most people. In comparison, a teardrop is about 7200 ppm and ocean water is about 36, 000 ppm.
High purity salt. It is important that the salt does not contain additives. Any common salt (like table salt) usually has an additive that may have straining properties. Consult your pool professional. They will make sure you use a suitable salt.
Salt is lost only through splash-out and backwashing. It is not lost through the chlorination process or evaporation. So, you’ll only have to add a small amount each year.
Your salt system will continue to operate. However, if the salt dips below 2800 ppm, it can be damaging to the cell, possibly reducing its life.